Your Official Cheat Code to Skiing The Andes This Summer

By Lexi Dowdall

As a skier, to flee the warmest moments of North American summer and find yourself skiing, wining, dining and celebrating winter in Chile feels like finding a cheat code to living your best life.

I can’t rightly describe the sensation of how glorious and victorious skiing in the unlikely months of August and September can feel, but it’s something you best take my word on as you pause your winter rambles to formulate your plans for a summer escape right about now. It’s counterintuitive and a little uncomfortable to plan a winter trip for the summer months while winter surrounds you, but sally forth and you won’t regret your foresight. 

The sluggish fixed-grip chairlifts, the clunky platter tows and the unwieldy T-bars of Chilean “centros de ski” offer a refreshing antidote to the glitz and speed of our North American ski resort infrastructure. In Chile, the prices are lower, the lifts are slower, the food is far better, and the wine…OH, THE WINE! 

Imagine the glimmering snow-capped peaks of the Andes Mountains scraping the azure sky as a condor drifts by. My biggest regret in life is failing to visit Chile sooner and learning too late in life that August in Chile far exceeds the quality of life in the scorching desert valleys of Utah in August. For a first-timer, the international travel logistics are relatively straightforward and I’ve got a winning itinerary for dipping into Chile’s bounty and beauty.

ARRIVAL
Book a red-eye from Atlanta, Miami or Los Angeles to Chile’s thriving capital, Santiago. Secure a window seat if possible so you can establish your bearings as you descend into the Chilean Central Valley with an eye-popping view of the city sprawling underneath the Andes Mountains at dawn. You’ll be renting a car but Chileans drive on the same side of the road as us northerners, so driving isn’t a total bear. Though the Chilean mountain passes you’ll need to navigate in aforementioned rental car might change your opinions on that front.

DAYS 1-3: REST & REJUVENATE 
After your flight and rental car, you’ll be making an approximately 1 hour drive north to the small town of Los Andes in the gorgeous Valparaíso region of Chile to recover from your journey. Your sanctuary is the lush and tranquil Barros Wellness & Spa Resort. This family-owned retreat could not be more welcoming and serene for your Chilean introduction.

Spend a few days here to relax, get your bearings and book a massage or two. Dive into your first taste of Chilean cuisine with the family’s home-cooked meals while recuperating from your trans-hemisphere travels. A host of wonderful activities are available at the resort such as plunge pools, cold pools, hot pools, wood fired hot tubs, saunas, yoga, massages and wellness treatments galore. The Barros family can also assist with booking day trips to mountain bike, hike, horseback ride and more.

Don’t miss a leisurely visit and tour of the nearby In Situ vineyard. This family-owned vineyard makes incredible wine thanks to the hot summer days and temperate nights fueled by cool breezes from the nearby Andes mountains. Catch the sunset while tasting the valley’s fruit and be sure to grab a few bottles in the shop to bring home.

DAY 3-4: SKI PORTILLO
Up a hair-raising mountain pass beyond the town of Los Andes lies a place you’ve no doubt spied in the pages of glossy ski magazines from the days of your youth. Situated high in the Andes mountains and Valparaíso Region lies Ski Portillo. Its cadmium yellow and cerulean blue hotel cheerfully stands sentinel along the shores of the enigmatic Laguna del Inca. Spend a day (or several) shaking out your summer legs and exploring the glistening slopes of Portillo.

You can make a day trip here from Los Barros up the heinous switchbacking road or if you want to truly dive in and experience Portillo, opt for a reservation at the iconic hotel for 3-4 nights. (They do not offer 1-night reservations, so the 3-4 night option is your best bet). I would not advise taking multiple day trips to Portillo from the wellness resort on account of the challenging drive from Los Andes. If you want more than 1 day at Portillo–stay there. 

WHY VISIT
Dramatic scenery and intimate atmosphere

Tap into Chile’s rich heritage and skiing traditions (peep the photographs on the walls in the lodge). Portillo is Chile’s oldest ski area!

Eighty percent of ski days at Portillo are sunny! Storms rumble in and deliver short but intense loads of dry powder snow and memorable bluebird skiing

The high elevation and remote location make for great stargazing at night

Nothing beats sipping a pisco sour at Tio Bob’s above the Laguna del Inca

Scream laughing up the slingshot lift is a memory that will never be forgotten

DAY 4-10: TRES VALLES (Three Valleys) 
You’ll depart Los Andes for the sky high village of Farellones and ascend another gut-wrenching, single-lane road from 1,800 feet above sea level in Santiago up to 7,900 feet. Prepare to navigate around 39 hair-raising switchbacks en route. Note that there may be one-way traffic restrictions on busy weekend periods. Ensure you understand the uphill/downhill traffic patterns and time your journey correctly. 

Clustered around the quaint village of Farellones lies Tres Valles and the renowned ski centers of La Parva, El Colorado, and Valle Nevado. These three interconnected resorts offer a combined expanse of terrain topping 7,000 acres and enough pistes, pisco sours and disco tunes to keep you busy for an entire week. Prepare for the most dramatic sunsets of your life in Farellones with the view west toward Santiago. 

IMPORTANT: It is required to have chains in your vehicle to cross the police checkpoint. Chains or “cadenas” are available for rent from roadside ski shops or even local families dangling the chains roadside as you begin to ascend upward out of Santiago. Don’t be afraid to bargain! The closer you get to the police checkpoint, the more expensive the chains become. Snag a pair early on in your drive and note that you may be required to provide “collateral” such as a driver’s license or insurance card.

After such a thrilling journey uphill, you’ll want to immediately navigate to La Marmita, a beloved institution at the base of La Parva for fondue and red wine. Just trust me on this one, it’s tradition for any self-respecting visitor! 

We stayed at the Powder Lodge, a funky treehouse near La Parva with an enthusiastic Chilean proprietor who also happens to be a phenomenal cook. The location, wood-fired hot tub, communal living room, hearty breakfasts, sauna and comfy rooms were excellent.  From this basecamp, take a few days to explore the 3 different ski areas, jam out to LOUD après tunes on a wide variety of patios and stuff your face with meats and red wine or the occasional Aperol Spritz.

LA PARVA 

• Long, scenic groomers

• Challenging freeride and big mountain terrain

• Exciting hike-to terrain and lines such as La Chimenea

• Generally less crowded than Valle Nevado

• Great food - Home of La Marmita and the best fondue you've ever had

VALLE NEVADO 

• More cosmopolitan vibe with many international visitors

• Greater number of chairlifts vs. surface lifts 

• Ample lodging

• Lively après 

• Mountain Collective and Ikon destination

• Chile’s largest ski field

EL COLORADO

• The local’s mountain - Chilean vibes

• Laid back atmosphere

• Affordable

• Seldom crowded

• Home of the daunting Santa Teresa freeride zone for road laps

DAY 11-12: SANTIAGO
The drive down from Farellones is a big enough chunk for one day so our crew opted to stay at the Ritz Carlton Santiago for a decompression day before the big flight home. The prices are reasonable and include rooftop spa access and an incredible breakfast buffet spread. For funsies, my friend and I selected the “Honeymoon Bliss” package and enjoyed cold champagne and heart-shaped desserts upon arrival. Hilarious. 14/10 recommend.

We explored the city and had a fantastic meal before tucking in after a rooftop hot tub. The brunch and spa day atop the hotel’s rooftop pool were the perfect way to unwind after our trip and mentally prepare for the long flight home. Santiago is renowned for its bakeries, red meat, wine and seafood so use this opportunity to indulge before returning to reality! 

FOR A GOOD TIME…

Pack a clear goggle lens in the event of foul weather. All the terrain at Portillo and Tres Valles is above treeline.

Plan to bring a wide variety of baselayers and midlayers. The winter weather in Chile can vary widely and it’s nice to have options.

Late August into September is officially spring skiing season and things can get pretty muddy. I was so grateful to have a pair of tall rubber boots for walking around town and navigating parking lots.

You can bring up to 3 bottles of wine back in your ski bag in compliance with customs Chilean wine is an incredible value for your dollar so plan to have ample space in your bag for the return trip.

It can be helpful to have Chilean pesos (cash) on hand as it’s difficult to locate ATMs in the more rural towns and mountain villages. Most places will accept a credit card.

Chile uses Type L charges, grab one of these to simply life.

Plan to bring your own ski boots, avalanche beacon, shovel, probe and goggles as these things can be difficult to obtain locally.

Over-the-counter medications can be challenging to obtain, bring a small first aid kit with the basics to avoid this inconvenience.

Follow Lexi's adventures at @kapowder.